Frankenjura again! A mere ten days after our long trip we returned to the southeast of Germany. A short five-day trip, which turned out to be amazing!
The autumn conditions were great throughout the entire time we were there. Cold and crispy-dry air, the kind of weather you read and dream about, but never seem to get. This time we were right on the money!
On day one I was able to quickly tick “Odd Fellows” in the first try of the day. Odd Fellows is an 8c on “Pornowand” that escaped me last time when it kept shredding my fingertips the minute I touched it.
Chuffed! What a start!
The next day I went to work out the moves of “Penumbral Solar Eclipse”, an 8c at “Vergessene Welt”. Ever since I had seen this crag in the film “The Wizard Apprentice”, I have wanted to go there. In the movie Adam Ondra climbs a 9a, which shares the last moves with the 8c and I liked the look of it.
Although I was keen for that route, somehow I didn’t feel that I was doing well in
I don’t believe that the Frankenjura needs any introduction… As a sport-climbing venue it has been on the map since decades thanks to climbers like Güllich, Albert, Sykora, Löw, Thon, and many more.
Located in the southeast of Germany, it’s only a six-hours drive from where my girlfriend and I live. Just perfect! After our ten-months trip to Spain last year we didn’t want to go far this year.
After a stop in munic World Cup Bouldering we dashed to the centre of the Frankenjura, where we rented a place close to Pottenstein. Time to get our hands on some rock!
In short; we had a good trip. The weather wasn’t always on our side, but with three 8c’s climbed, I feel like we’ve got value for our money.
I climbed the ultra-short “Downset” quite fast, the steep resistance-route “Steinbock” and the atypical roof called “Roof Warrior”. Perhaps more would have been in the cards, but as mentioned before, you have to deal with the weather you get and from the third
BÄHM- da ist die Johanna mal eben auf nem Kurzbesuch in der Fränkischen und holt sich die 2te Frauenbegehung des Mega- Klassikers "Wallstreet" 11- von Wolfgang Güllich ab. Die Route verläuft ungefähr durch die Mitte des Krottenseer Turms und galt zur Zeit ihrer Erstbegehung (1987) durch Wolfgang Güllich als erste 11- weltweit.
Das gnadenlose Durchreißen und Aufstellen von Winzgriffen in dieser Tour verursacht bei manchen schon Ringbandrisse nur vom Hinsehen! KRASS!
SUPER COOL Johanna, wir sind stolz auf Dich und Wolfgang wär es sicherlich auch, vor allem auf Deine Leggins!…
"Do the monkeestyle!"
Johanna Ernst: http://monkeeclothing.com/familie/athleten/johanna