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After my trip to Magic Wood I swapped my pad for a rope again and went to the Frankenjura. It has been quite a while since my last visit to the old area. This time Nina came along, her first visit to the Frankenjura. We got the idea of going there from a friend, Bram aka “Junior” aka “Belgians strongest fingers”, who’s lately my partner in crime when it comes to hanging around in hard routes.
He had this project in the Frankenjura called “New Orleans Heavy Weight Division” on the Endorama crag, where most (or all?) routes are bolted by Monkee-teammate Heiko. I decided to just tag along. The first day it rained all day, but in the evening we still decided to check it out. The last four meters were soaked, leaving the rock covered in a slippery black film (water and lichen are just a winning combination). Still, the crux was at the bottom of the route, so we tried some moves anyway.
Bram went first, showing me all the methods. Then I had my go, warming up from bolt to bolt,
Last month I went to Magic Wood, the famous boulder venue in Switzerland. Although it was a spontaneous decision to go there and meet up with some friends from Sheffield, it was good to grit my teeth and gain a bit of power by bouldering.
At the beginning of Mai I’ve bolted a new line in Belgium. A fusion-route, being a sportclimbing route that only exists out of a series of boulder problems and no rests. Crazy heel- and toe-hooks, dead point slapping, moves on tension and contra-tension, iron-cross moves, cut-looses, it has it all! Unfortunately it turned out to be ridiculously hard, so hard that I couldn’t even try the hardest sections.
The very next day I was driving to Magic Wood.
It was nice to do some outdoor bouldering again and to try loads of different moves. I even climbed four 8a’s quite quickly. As always, I left with a bunch of projects for next time, but at least now I got stronger to try my own project!
The Frankenjura was in mind for a long period, I had the desire to be in contact with this environment and this style of climbing but I never had the opportunity to visit it. One evening Gabri Moroni sent me a message and he asked to my brother and I if we are interested to spend one week in Frankenjura. We were super sycked and motivated to leave again from the boring routine days, so we accepted the Gabri’s request so Gabri, Marco, Ema and me prepared the stuffs and we left for the Germany.
After six hour of car we were in Frankenjura, the sun was shining but we still not too tired so we decided to climb some routes to test the new kind of rock. We opted for Eldorado sector because it is very close to the flat that we rent. This crag is featured by a small steep wall just above a playground area. “No more babysitting for neurotic girl today” was our first route because it was the easiest one; then we move without fear on “Nightmare” a famous 8b composed by only 9 moves